Frequently asked questions

1 Basics

However, we would like to direct you to the proper channels for the definitive answers to your questions on the following subjects.

Q  Racing rules and race management

A  If you have any questions regarding racing rules, or race management, please direct them in the first instance to the person responsible within your country. He can be contacted through your country's RSD Division Member (the MYA in the UK).

Q  Class rules and measurement

A  If you have any questions regarding class rules and measurement please direct them in the first instance to the person responsible within your country. He can be contacted through your country's RSD Division Member (the MYA in the UK).

Q  Sailmaking

A  We can supply some sailmaking notes for a small fee (this is a free downloadable document now) that will give you a good start and we can supply many, but not all, of the materials we use. Unfortunately, we are not in a position to give comprehensive and detailed information to individuals about making sails. However we can now supply the booklet 'Making Model Yacht Sails' - look under the MISC section - which deals with this aspect of the sport at a high level. It is the best explanation of how to get the shaping right that we have seen. Please also see FAQ sections 5, 6.

Q  Yacht design

A  Here too we unfortunately are not able to answer individual queries about yacht design. We have a Book List, Miscellaneous Information MI-03 (this is a free downloadable document now), that covers the sources I have found most useful. Amongst them you will find books that deal with the practical aspects of setting out the lines as well as the theoretical aspects of design. Most are for full size yachts. The ones dealing with RC sailing are less useful but can show you what has happened in the past. Please also see FAQ section 3.

2 Beginners

A  If you are interested in RC sailing then our advice is the following. Establish which is your local club and ask which class(es) they race. Buy a second-hand boat (almost any one will do providing it sails). Get sailing as soon as you can. Plan to spend the first year learning about (a) the sport at all levels and (b) the boats used in competition. Plan to up-grade your boat after the first season to one that you have chosen carefully, based on what you have learnt.

We would not recommend buying a kit or building from a plan to any newcomer to the sport. My own boats are sometimes for sale at "as new" prices but we would not suggest buying a brand new boat either.

Q  Where should I find a second-hand boat for sale?

A  The secretary of the radio sailing club in your area may know of one of his club’s members who has one he may wish to sell. Look at the MYA’s Boat List on its web pages. Look in the small ads in Model Boats magazine and Marine Modelling International magazine.

Q  Can you give any guidance to a beginner wanting to buy a boat?

A  Again, for your very first boat, availability and price will be the primary considerations, and the speed potential of the boat at this stage is not that important. Performance as well as price should guide the purchase of your next boat. Used boats are often excellent value. They will usually not be regarded as the fastest around but they may well be the ones that were regarded as the fastest until recently. As there is a significant fashion element in the sport it is sometimes possible to pick up very quick boats at quite modest prices. Second hand boats will usually be at quite attractive prices compared with buying new but, as ever, you tend to get what you pay for and the better boats will attract better prices. The pace of design development is not great and any boat that was truly competitive a few seasons ago will still be a potential winner if equipped and sailed well.

Assume the RC equipment will not be in tip top condition and expect to replace it, keeping the original as spares. On this basis it is not terribly important to have RC equipment with the boat. 

Do not buy any boat without having seen it first unless you trust the judgement of someone who has.

Q  Any guidance regarding choice of design for a beginner?

A  Probably for the first year it will be your lack of rules knowledge, tactical experience, and ability to control the boat that will slow you down rather than any fault of the boat. So, if you are planning to replace the boat after a year (as suggested), it is not terribly important which design you have.

Look at results in Yachts and Yachting, Marine Modelling International and Model Boats magazines and ask your local club members (several) which they rate as a good choice and which to avoid at any price.

Q  Which class should I go for?

A  Whatever is sailed at your local club. There is not much fun in sailing around without someone to race against.

Q  But I don't want to race, only to sail for fun. Are there any kits available in model shops which I should consider?

A  Sailing for fun may become fairly humdrum after a while and you may well end up looking for others to join in with, either informally or through a club.

Good competition is possible with model shop kits but you need to research carefully what does work and what does not. Check your local user groups before purchasing.

3 Design

Q  How does the new PRIME NUMBER differ from the earlier version?

A  The principal difference is in the method of manufacture. The hull is now moulded in pre-preg carbon and autoclave cured at 100-120 degrees C giving a lighter, stronger, stiffer, more heat resistant hull. New moulds were required to enable hulls to be produced this way and we took the opportunity to revise the detail design as well as the way in which the moulds are used. The hull shape below the deck edge has been retained but instead of the moulds being split down the centreline the moulds are now split around the deck edge. This permits many detail changes that are useful in the build and fit out process. For example the recess for the pot and the whole deck area is now built in at the hull moulding stage. Recesses for the headsail sheet fairlead, the headsail boom swivel attachment and the sheet return block are built in too. This saves weight and completion time. The fin box and mast tube are also built into the primary hull moulding at the same time.

Q  Is it true that you are allowing copies of the TOPIKO to be made under licence?

A  Yes. A number of boat builders have indicated they want to start moulding this design which they will complete in their own style. Although the moulds will be made from the original plug we cannot determine the quality they will achieve so you should satisfy yourself that it will meet your own required standards before ordering.

Q  How is the new A Class design performing?

A  Our long order book and the late announcement of the 2005 world championship event meant we made no more than 4 of the boats – design named SWORD - by then. All took part in the event. Phillip Playle badly damaged his finger before the event and was unable to sail his own boat. It was helmed by Ken Binks for the first time at the event and Ken went on to place 2nd. Graham Bantock’s own boat won and the other two got excellent results for their owners. Either Bantock or Playle won the other PRACC events that they took part in during the year so rounding off very happily the time and effort put into the project.

The boat is clearly very fast in a wide range of conditions and the nature of the class suggests this is likely to remain so for a long period.

SAILSetc built SWORDs took the top two places at the 2006 UK championship with two others built up from pre-preg hulls giving excellent results in their first season.

Q  Is the design of SWORD based on FRIGATE?

A   In a way. The hull of Vernon Appleton’s FRIGATE was well prepared for the 2004 championship and was leading when the rig started to disintegrate in the 2nd and 3rd suit conditions prevailing. We had not been responsible for making the rig! But by then it was established how it compared against the other designs present. The new design has been tweaked to improved on FRIGATE’s performance profile. Interestingly, after the rig had been thoroughly re-built, Vernon went on to win two open events, one in light and one in moderate airs.

Q  We mould RC boat hulls, and supply kits. Can we mould your designs under licence?

A  Yes. We have several licence agreements with builders around the world for a number of designs. Please tell us your requirements.

We also keep a list (un-used mould list) of moulds that are offered for sale. The moulds are those we no longer use for production of parts but may be excellent starting points for other builders who want to avoid the mould making process and step straight into production. Replacement of a number of our boat moulds, so that we can produce hulls in pre-preg carbon, means we can offer the moulds we have been using up to 2006. The list includes PUZZLE and RENAISSANCE but not SWORD as the original mould was destroyed in an accident.

Q  Is it true you have designed a canting keel yacht for the Formula 100 – Open One Metre (F100) class rules?

A  Yes. This project was commissioned by Doug Lord of Florida, USA so that he can add a canting ballast twin foil (CBTF) yacht to the range of yachts offered by microSAIL – see www.microsail.com.

The CBTF concept has been patented by DynaYacht with whom Doug has a commercial agreement allowing him to use the technology on RC yachts. In essence, in a CBTF yacht, the normal fixed fin and ballast is replaced by a canting strut and ballast. By canting the strut and ballast to one side or the other stability can be matched to the heeling moment and the hull can be sailed upright. The relatively large angle that the strut makes to the vertical means it is inefficient at generating side force to resist the side force of the rig. So the strut’s only task is to support the ballast with a very low drag. Ability to generate adequate side force and steerage is achieved by using twin rudders, one being placed ahead of the strut and one being aft. Each is larger than the normal single rudder. Steering is achieved by turning both rudders in opposite directions. Leeway control and helm balance is achieved by turning both rudders in the same direction. In fact leeway can be reduced to zero with the correct choice of rudder angles.

The Reichel/Pugh designed 60 footer Wild Oats was the earliest conspicuous example of the technology.

Doug has already come to grips with many of the technological problems with related concepts. All these have been One Designs rather than in the International RC classes. Although the CBTF yacht will be a One Design, it is also intended that it shall meet the F100 class rules that, unlike all the International RC classes, permit movable ballast.

My brief was to optimise the overall design while taking into account the various constraints imposed. Doug's experience with similar projects means he is able to provide realistic data regarding the achievable construction weights. The use of twin rudders, sail winch and strut/ballast winch, as well as a fifth channel for independent jib control, will make this a demanding boat to sail but this is nothing unusual for Doug. The RMG winches are recognised as the most powerful around but nevertheless limit the stability provided by the canting ballast. In a boat with no traditional fixed external ballast it is clear that this in turn provides the upper limit to performance. Rob Guyatt is contributing his own valuable input as he has done previously with Doug's projects. As usual our VPP was employed to evaluate the relative performance of the candidate designs.

One important requirement was that the CBTF yacht should be able to beat a fixed keel yacht in the F100 class. After all, if a fixed keel yacht is faster, there is little point using unnecessarily complex technology. So, the first task was to identify the likely characteristics of an optimum F100. This has been done. SAILSetc has no plans to publish lines for a F100 at this stage but we are confident that our International One Metre design ITALIKO, built and rigged in carbon, will be fully competitive in the F100 class as far as a fixed keel design can be.

Clearly, if the technical constraints can be resolved and the CBTF design is capable of beating an optimised fixed keel F100 design, then it will be the fastest radio controlled 1 metre monohull around.

The design work was finalised in 2003 and the concept appears very promising. Contact Doug for details of the prototype and production boats.

Q  What other classes have you designed for?

A   One set of lines for a boat to the Italian 2 Metre class has been drawn. The fin was an interesting design problem as it has to be capable of taking a 8-9 kg ballast on a draught of 700 mm. In the end we provided a fin moulded out of our 2003 fin mould where the skin thickness was increased well above the normal level for a Marblehead. The boat seems to have been successful for its owner, Patrizio Rocchegiani.

A 2004 project was for a boat to the 1/12th America’s Cup Class to be used in USA. During 2006, and before the boat was built, the class rules were changed to the extent that existing designs will be un-competitive across the whole range of likely conditions. After getting confirmation of some of the new class rules the design process has been re-visited and the new design has now sailed.

In the meantime we have produced a fin mould that will enable us to make a suitable fin for this class. In fact it is the same mould used to make the fin for our A Class. The mould is 700 mm long, tapers from a 280 chord to 75 mm. Thus fins for A Class, 6 Metre, ACC/12 and probably ACC/10 can be made from it.

Q  Can you provide a lines plan for a custom design?

A  Yes. We have a schedule of charges dependent on the class. We would provide a lines plan developed without reference to VPP comparisons but based on our previous designs and judgement and incorporating your ideas as far as possible. The plan would show the estimated position of foils, ballast, RC equipment, and mast.

We spend time developing revised and new designs as time permits (currently in progress are a 6 Metre, a 10 Rater for heavy airs, a Phigit, a Free Sailing A Class and a Footy). If you wish we can further develop these ideas especially for your intended application. The fee will reflect the amount of development and comparative work undertaken.

If you would prefer to have us evaluate the performance of several candidate designs and decide the 'best' for your chosen wind speed profile, then this work can be undertaken for an additional fee.

Boat builders wishing to mould a new SAILSetc design may prefer to pay a royalty on each hull moulded and we are always happy to discuss this.

We have also carried out other design work on a consultancy basis for major players in the model/toy market and are happy to advise on all aspects of the sport as required on a strictly commercial basis.

Please call us to discuss your requirements.

Q  I am seeking a subject for my university degree course final year project. Are there any areas of research that would benefit from further study?

A  Yes. We have worked with undergraduate aeronautics and naval architecture students and are happy to assist with expertise, rigs, and other equipment on the basis that knowledge gained will be shared. We keep a list of potential subjects, mostly relevant to all yacht design, that we think would be of interest.

Q  Can you tell me what mast/fin/ballast/rudder position to use for the hull I am building?

A  If it is for one of our designs… the information is given on the plan. If it is for one of our current or past designs please send a note and we will find the information you need.

If it is for one for our designs from another builder then please ask the builder/supplier. For hulls from other designers/builders we suggest you consult the designer or seller of the hull/kit and ask for a general arrangement plan.

Q  I want to complete a SAILSetc design using a different mast/fin/ballast/rudder instead of the intended version. Can you assist me?

A  The design and position of these items has been carefully chosen to maximise performance. Our best advice is to leave them as intended. However, one of the joys of RC sailing is the ability to experiment on your own.

Q  I have heard you are working on a new design to replace your current boat. Is it true?

A  We are always looking at ways of improving the performance of our boats. But this does not mean we are about to produce a new design. Also we will not go to the trouble of making a plug, new moulds, and building and testing a prototype unless it is 'guaranteed' to be an improvement. The investment in time, effort, and lost production associated with this sort of work is large and not the sort of thing to be undertaken lightly or simply to keep up with fashion. We will do it, however, when we think we can make a significant improvement. 

Interestingly, the largest genuine gains (i.e. a gain in all conditions rather than in one specific condition) in performance over the last decade have been about 5 to 10 times greater from better foil design than from better hull design. Although this does not mean we should ignore hull design, it does indicate that the most profitable area for research is in the foils. Happily these are also the easiest to replace.

Q  Do you do a 'skiff' type One Metre?

A  If you mean one with a cockpit aft, no. After the 1997 One Metre World Championship it seemed anything called a 'skiff' was popular. Not all were fast and some were desperately bad. We did not go down that route but preferred to wait until we had learnt enough from the new VPP to be sure that our next One Metre would be good enough to win. It was and IKON will probably remain a top performer for a long time to come even though you may not call it a 'skiff'.

The significant feature of 'skiffs', as far as performance is concerned, is the lowered deck where the mast is stepped. This reduction of rig height increases stability by lowering the VCG of the rig and by reducing the heeling moment of the rig forces. However this advantage is offset by increased complexity and building weight. The advantages of a lowered rig are achieved in our designs by using a centre deck moulding (items 311b/c/e/f) without the disadvantage of increased building weight.

Q  Do you have a plan for a Phigit Class boat yet?

A  Not yet. But we expect to respond to the new class by producing a plan for a Phigit at some stage in the future. In the meantime it seems that a Ten Rater with length scaled to give a waterline of around 1100 mm and beam scaled to give the 4.25 kgs total displacement would be a good starting point.

4 Product choice

A  Our 11.1 mm GROOVY or 11.0 mm round mast sections (with 0.5 mm to 0.6 mm wall thickness) are stiff enough providing the masts are supported well at the heel and deck. These sections are only just above the minimum diameter permitted so there is nothing to gain by using a tube with a thicker wall.  A thinner wall would improve stability but would have a negative impact on rig stiffness.

Both GROOVY and plain round tube at 11.1/11.0 mm diameter are stiff enough. I usually use 11.1 mm GROOVY for the usual reasons and because the shape of the mainsail can be controlled well via the mast shape. Recently I have experimented with eyelet luff mainsail on an 11.0 mm round mast.

A larger diameter would probably be heavier and reduce stability and it will certainly increase the windage of the rig.

Q  Which mast diameter should I use for the No 1 mast on my IOM?

A  The choice is a little more difficult as the stiffness of our 11.1/11.0 mm mast sections is only just adequate if carefully rigged and tuned. The 12.7 mm sections are certainly stiff enough but have implications for stability and windage.

12.7 mm diameter GROOVY and plain round tube will give stiff masts that will be easy to rig and tune. However the extra windage associated with anything above the smallest successful size is to be avoided if possible.

11.0 mm diameter plain round tube is just stiff enough. 11.1 mm GROOVY is not quite stiff enough.

I use 11.0 mm diameter plain round tube as it is a good compromise, being stiff enough and of low weight and windage.

Q  Which rigging wire should I be using for my XYZ class boat?

A  All the common applications and requirements are shown on the viewable and downloadable guide notes under Rigging (under the Parts section of this website). For boats of Ten Rater size and below, if you are not yet using it, you should try replacing all round wires with our flat rigging wire, item W12. This drops windage considerably and improves performance in all conditions.

Q  What spares should I buy when I take delivery of my new boat?

A  Apart from spare rc units from your favourite supplier we suggest the following:

qty	item description	order code
1	deck patch material, 0.5 m^2	DP-05
1	spool Dyneema cord 0.5 mm Ø 30 kg BS 20 metres	D30
1	spool Dyneema cord 0.6 mm Ø 50 kg BS 20 metres	D50
1	fin bolt M4 x 25 mm countersunk	-
1	stainless steel ring for 46-100	46b
1	pot lid for screw top pot	54L
1	bowsies, mixed pack	57a
1	'O' rings 10 mm Ø, pack of 10	82b
2	tapered bung	86
1	counterbalance weight	102-XX
1	bow bumper	330
If you want to take all of these just ask for a SPARES-PAK .

Q  I am interested in an IKON, ITALIKO or TOPIKO. Which is better?

A  Simple question, difficult answer. IKON and ITALIKO are optimised for a different range of wind speeds.

IKON was designed with the specific intention of being capable of winning the 1999 World Championship against the best boats of the time in a wide range of wind speeds. This it did. Although it is considerably better than the wider boats in light airs, it is not quite the fastest design in those conditions - it can be beaten by narrower boats with less wetted area. They will normally be slower in a breeze. IKON's max beam is around 250 mm.

ITALIKO was designed to be fast in a wide range of No 1 rig conditions specifically to give it the best chance of winning light airs regattas. It is not quite the fastest possible design in the lightest winds as such a boat would be poor at the other extreme of No 1 rig conditions. So it has features that improve its performance all round in No 1 rig conditions. ITALIKO’s max beam is around 220 mm.

TOPIKO is a modification of ITALIKO intended to help at high speeds - light airs speed may be very slightly less.

TOPIKO is very similar to ITALIKO in terms of overall dimensions and characteristics. The detail shape of the underwater canoe body is different and is expected to improve the performance of the hull at high speeds.  Early tests with a timber prototype indicated this to be the case so a production version of the boat was made. The prototypes, sailed by Bantock and Puthod, finished 1st and 7th in the 2004 European championship in Arcos, Spain. Piuerluigi Puthod’s boat had the best set of any 9 races at the event. All this within 11 weeks of finalising the lines!

Neither IKON, nor ITALIKO, nor TOPIKO is so optimised for one condition that performance is poor in off design conditions. All are safe designs from which to choose.

Q  How does TOPIKO vary from ITALIKO?

A   TOPIKO is very similar to ITALIKO, with which we are very pleased, and the above waterline lines, wetted surface area, stability and general dimensions are nearly the same.

The differences are small changes to the section shape, rocker line, longitudinal centre of buoyancy and detail cosmetic treatment of the transom and bow.

The decision to build the new plug was based on favourable reports of the performance of a number of close sisters to ITALIKO that have been built and trialled. In particular they are reported to have excellent speed downwind in a breeze and the ability to sprint away in a gust. Time will tell if this difference represents a genuine overall increase in performance of what is already known to be a superb design (2000, 2003 and 2004 UK champion, 2002 and 2003 Iberian champion, 2004 Adriatic champion, 2004 USA champion) or whether it is a change of emphasis.

TOPIKOs placed 2^nd at the 2005 and 2007 world championships and took six of the top eleven places in 2007 winning 13 of the 25 races.

TOPIKO is built and fitted out with the same options and exactly as per the recent ITALIKO’s that we have built. Please refer to our Specification and Boat Order Form that identifies the specifications and prices.

With the Hitec servo sail control system we use a 100 mm drum. This is a little different to earlier ITALIKO’s which used an arm on the servo. The changes made simplify the installation, reduce the friction, increase the pull available at peak load times and reduce the ingress of water.

We use a revised fin box/mast tube moulding that has a cavity for the fin with smaller space for entrained water. Fins are invariably thinner now and this change will save a small drag penalty from carrying unwanted water in the box.

5 Sails/Sailmaking

A  Unfortunately not. Making sails appropriate for a good quality scale model yacht requires materials we do not use. We suggest you contact some of the better quality scale model makers.

Q  I need sails for a Micro Magic. Can you help?

A  Unfortunately not. Top quality sails for these and similar sized boats would require materials that are outside the range that we stock. Tempting as it is to rise to the considerable challenge that making sails for Micro Magics would be, we have taken the decision not to go down that route.

Q  I need sails for a vintage model yacht. Can you help?

A   Again, unfortunately not. Making sails appropriate for a vintage model yacht requires materials we do not use. We suggest you contact the Vintage Model Yacht Group via its chairman Russell Potts on russellpotts@aol.com.

Q  I am planning to build my own sails. What help can you give?

A  Our Sailmaking Notes, reference TI-20, are aimed at beginners to this field. For a modest charge (this is a free downloadable document now) it will tell you enough to get going and allow you to produce quite respectable shaped sails with a little patience and care. Of course it does not tell you all the proprietary secrets we make use of!

You should get a copy of ‘Making Model Yacht Sails’. We are stocking this masterclass in modern sailmaking for rc model yachts by Larry Robinson and which, at £12.50, represents the best investment you can make. It describes the use of moulds to add 3D shape to the sails, the design and construction of the moulds themselves, as well as adding the luff shaping to the sails.

See the sailmaking materials we can supply in the SAILS/MATERIALS section of this site.

Q  I plan to order some sails from you. Which sail cloths can you offer?

A  We have moved on from using standard drawing film for sails and now use a range of Mylar film that is un-coated. It is lighter for the same strength, or stronger for the same weight, than drawing film and it is not affected by moisture as the coated films are.

A new material to us in 2005 is 125 micron polyester film. This is about the same thickness as the woven Dacrons but is a lot smoother and stiffer. It will be ideal for sails that are used on heavy boats and in very strong winds. If they will not be exposed to rough handling, which the woven Dacrons will survive with less damage, they will give excellent and long lasting performance.

The experience we have had with Cuben Fiber cloth suggests that, even though it is excellent material for super light airs, it is not durable enough for us to recommend. We no longer have stocks of the material and, with this in mind, we have dropped it from the catalogue

We also use 140 and 160 g/m² woven Dacron for sails that are to be used in stronger winds or that need to be especially durable e.g. mainsails for 6M and A Class (classes permitted only a single mast).

The films are:

Thickness	Comment	Applications	Examples
50 micron (70 g/m2)		Lightweight sails	IOM No 1 Lightweight sails for M, 10 Rater, EC12, 6 Metre
75 micron (110 g/m2)		Panelled sails	IOM No 2 & 3 M B & C rig sails 10R No 2, 3 and 4 rig mainsails + headsails 6M No 1 sails Lightweight sails A Class No 1 ACC/12 No 1
125 micron (180 g/m2)		Panelled sails	10R No 5 rig mainsails 6M No 2/3 mainsails A Class No 1 and lower sails with eyelet luff mainsail ACC/12 No 2 and lower sails with eyelet luff mainsail
140 g/m2		Panelled sails	IOM No 2 & 3 mainsails M C rig & lower mainsails 10R No 3 rig & lower sails 6M panelled sails A Class No 1 sails with cord luff mainsail
140 g/m2 Mylar Scrim		Panelled sails	Sails for stronger winds
140+ g/m2 Mylar Scrim		Panelled sails	Sails for stronger winds

Specification of materials - there are two choices:

• We make the sails with the shaping and the material we consider best - all prices are based on this assumption
• You choose and specify the shaping and/or materials - there is an additional charge for this.

Q  I want some sails made especially for light airs. What do you suggest?

A  Our normal lightweight sails made of 50 micron film are joined using double sided tape only and give very smooth seams. They work well in light airs and are robust enough to withstand distortion when the sail is loaded up in stronger winds. If you want sails that will tack through in light airs ask for ‘tapered seams’. Seams will be shaped so they are narrower in the middle of the sail chord and wider at leech and luff.

Q Will they be strong enough for a breeze?

A  When the sail section is loaded up in stronger winds it will not be as smooth as sails made from heavier cloth. Wrinkles and creasing may distort the sail shape and will cause performance to drop but the seams will not fail in normal use. If the sails’ seams are stressed when warm, perhaps in the back of your car or in storage at home, the sail section may alter slightly from the design shape.

Q  Can I buy One Metre sails from you that are already certified to be in accordance with class rules?

A  Not yet. Self certification of sails by the sailmaker is a process that is allowed for in the IOM class rules. To be able to do that we will need to have a licence issued by the Royal Yachting Association which is currently assessing the system it will use to ensure that the sailmakers' systems of quality control are adequate for the task. When that stage is over SAILSetc will be applying for such a licence.

Q  Can you make me some One Metre sails that are up to the maximum dimensions permitted by the class rules?

A  If we cut the sails using target dimensions equal to the maximum permitted by the class rules you, or the measurer, would find that about one third of the individual dimensions were at the maximum permitted. About one third would be below and one third would be over. As a fair number of dimensions are checked, it is likely that your sails would not measure and some of the dimensions would still be ‘too small’. To ensure that all dimensions were at the maximum we would have to target just above the maximum permitted. Then you would find that many dimensions were over the maximum. Trimming down may, or may not, be possible.

So, in principle, yes, we can make sails to the maximum sizes permitted but they will almost certainly not pass measurement until altered, and even then you would be at risk from the inevitable minor differences that can pop up should a sail be checked at an event.

Q  I want a special cut of sail with specified fullness and section shape at certain points. Can you make it for me?

A  Yes, for IOM sails. During 2007 the un-loaded shapes of a series of different sails have been correlated with the shaping used to create them. This has enabled the shaping that will be used to create the sail to be chosen to target a given un-loaded sail shape.

It is hoped that the un-loaded shapes will be correlated with the flying shapes at some stage in the future to enable a given flying shape to be targeted.

Our standard sail shaping will be retained for production sails (termed F2 shaping) and the common variations from this (F1 – flatter; F3, and F4 – progressively fuller) are the common alternatives.

Q  Can you sell me some of the film you use for sails?

A   No, sorry. We do not have any surplus material that meets our standards. One source is 50 micron drawing film available as pads, purchased from a supplier of drawing office equipment. This is becoming less commonly available now but an alternative source is the film used for wrapping flowers and for wrapping gifts – try florists and shops that specialise in cards/gift wrapping paper. For larger quantities go to business that trade under the generic name of ‘converters’. They take the raw film from the manufacturers and convert it into the various specialised products used by different industries. You may be able to buy suitable material from Pierre Gonnet, PG Modelisme, France.

Q  Can you make me sails for the XYZ class yacht I have?

A  Almost certainly.  Send us the class rules and/or dimensions you require and we will be able to quote you. Bear in mind that local and national classes often have poorly expressed class rules. If we make sails to those class rules, it is possible that we may interpret them in a different way from your local traditions.

The built-in sail shaping will be based on our in-house code that is based on previous successful generations of sails from a variety of classes. It copes with all aspect ratios and sizes within the normal range.

To assist you there is a downloable order form under the SAILS section of this website.

Q  Can you make me some sails like the ones you used at XYZ event?

A  Possibly, but only if you can tell us what they were like. We regularly test different methods of sailmaking and new materials. We do not keep detailed long-term records of test sails and or when they were used. The successful experiments are quickly incorporated into our standard procedures. The less successful ones are not.

Q  Can you put draft stripes on my sails when you make them?

A  It is better that you do it in case we do not do it they way you had hoped for or make a mess of it. It is also better to do it after sail marks have been applied.

Q  My sails have wrinkles in the tapes on the luff. How has this happened?

A  The luff reinforcements are applied using self adhesive tapes which, even when they are sewn, will tend to move relative to the body of the sail when the sails are rolled. Almost all sails leaving here are rolled and placed in tubes for delivery. The longer they spend in a rolled condition, and the higher the temperatures reached in that condition, the more wrinkling of the tapes and reinforcements will become apparent.
When sails arrive they should be un-rolled and hung up. This will give them the best opportunity to recover from stresses imposed during delivery. The light luff tensioning used during normal use will remove most of the wrinkles. Any others that remain are an unavoidable consequence of sending them rolled, sorry

Q  Should I choose swing rig or conventional rigs for my Marblehead?

A  Opinion seems to be split on this. Very good results are obtained by a large variety of sailors for a wide variety of hulls with conventional rigs for their lower rigs i.e. 1800 mm mainsail luff and lower. Some sailors get very good results with swing rigs in these conditions but they appear to be in a minority.

In light airs the received wisdom has been that there is little doubt that a swing rig is best. It is as good, or nearly so, as a conventional rig to windward and far easier to sail well with on broad reaching and running courses. 

Recent experience seems to question established wisdom as we have seen several light airs events where the designer’s conventionally rigged PRIME NUMBER has performed very well indeed.

When the wind builds to 6-8 knots or more any benefits the swing rig has seem to disappear or become insignificant compared with the disadvantages i.e. relatively poor gust response and handling when over pressed. For example it was found that PARADOX could handle winds of 12+ knots quite well when used with a conventional style 10 Rater full area rig some 40% bigger than the largest Marblehead rig. In these conditions it would have been uncompetitive with a Marblehead sized swing rig.

The design of our Marbleheads, ROK and PRIME NUMBER, has an influence on choice of rig type. The foredeck of these designs (and ASTRA & MONARCH, the similar designs available as plans) is raised to help shed water when the bow is pressed down. The aft deck at the mast is lowered in the style of modern One Metres. This means that the conventional rigs stepped aft of the break in the deck are lowered whereas the swing rig, stepped forward of the break, is raised. This improves performance with conventional rigs in a breeze (by effectively raising effective stability) and also with swing rig in lights airs (by getting the rig up into stronger wind). The weak area is when using an A swing rig towards the top of its range. Then a conventional "A" rig will be a better choice.

Until 1986 I used swing rigs exclusively on Marbleheads. Until 2000 I used an "A" swing rig and conventional lower rigs. Since then I have used a conventional "A" rig and continue to get very encouraging results.

6 Fins/Rudders

Q  Are you now making a deeper/narrower rudder moulding?

A  Yes. All our rudders have been relatively short and wide in the past. The reason for this is that their drag is lower than deep/narrow rudders. For a given thickness of stock they can also have a lower thickness/chord ratio which also keeps their drag low. All the tests I have carried out with earlier designs of deeper/narrower rudders have shown perceptible speed loss in light airs and this has been a cost that I have felt not worth taking.

However, sailing downwind in large waves is one occasion when a deeper/narrower rudder scores well over a short/wide one. The reason for this is that there are times when the speed of the rudder though the water is lowered considerably because of the presence of a long, steep, wave. This reduces the control that the rudder can exert on the hull. One solution is to push the rudder area lower. There will be a cost to light airs speed though. You will need to determine the best solution for a range of conditions if you want to do well at a long event.

Look under the PARTS/RUDDERS of this website for the 360 series of deeper/narrow/rudders. The 358 series rudder are the shallower/wider ones.

Q  Which rudder moulding should I use?

A  Item 358a is a low aspect ratio rudder blade that can be sized for IOM, Marblehead and Ten Rater classes. Item 358b is a rudder suitable for Marblehead and Ten Rater and item 358c is a rudder suitable for IOM. Choose these for best performance in light airs and flat water.

Item 360a is a high aspect ratio rudder blade with the same new section that can be sized for IOM, Marblehead and Ten Rater classes. Item 360b is a rudder suitable for Marblehead and Ten Rater and item 360c is a rudder suitable for IOM. Choose these for best performance in strong winds airs and waves.

Q  Which rudder should I use to replace my older existing rudder?

A  Rudder area is the primary factor. If the rudder you have gives adequate control of the boat choose one from our range that has the same depth x max chord as your existing rudder. If you want to maintain performance in light airs and flat water then choose the shorter rudder (358 series). If you want to maximise control in waves and strong winds then go for the deeper rudders (360 series).

If the rudder you have does not give adequate control of the boat there are two things you should check before changing it. Check that the servo can move the rudder freely to 50 degrees each side of centre. Check that the servo has sufficient power to achieve this under load. Only if these things are OK should you consider increasing the size of the rudder.

Q  Why are your foils so costly?

A  There are several reasons.

We use sections that have been optimised for the speeds and lift requirements that are typical for RC sailing. The originals had great success on model gliders and, in light of experience, have been continually modified for our purposes by the designer to whom we pay a modest royalty.

The foils are made in precision metal moulds that themselves are costly to manufacture by CNC machining. However, this ensures the integrity of the section, keeping it faithful to the original design and also symmetrical.

The carbon used for the skins is a mixture of thin woven cloth on the outside with uni-directional, high modulus (extra stiff) carbon fibre on the inside. These materials are all more costly than 'standard' carbon. Thanks to heavy demand from the aerospace industry the price of carbon is rising faster now than in previous years.

Each carbon/resin matrix is compressed between the metal mould and a matched mould. We use hydraulic jacks and a strong press to achieve pressures well in excess of that normally used in autoclaves to compress the matrix and exclude excess resin.

In the middle of our fins is a corrugated carbon core. This is very light but holds the skins together very rigidly. The mould was very time consuming to make.

Bonding the core and the two outer skins together is time consuming as is shaping the leading and trailing edges properly.

But we think it is worth it. Another manufacturer's fin has a reputation among some people for being the stiffest. Our measurement jig shows our fin as approximately 4 (four) times as stiff for about the same weight.

Q  How has fin design changed over the years?

A  Before 1992 we used fins to a 9% thickness/chord ratio section by Helmut Quabeck that seemed ideal for low speeds. A big step forward was made in 1992 when we switched to a 7% t/c section by David Hollom. At the same time we adopted the construction method we are still using and which gives an amazingly high stiffness to weight ratio. The gains made by the 1992 fin fuelled big performance gains resulting in several major championship wins. In 2000 we experimented briefly with a 6% t/c version of the 1992 section. It had some advantages but had lower stiffness.

A new fin section design became available in early 2003. Another became available in early 2004. The basic difference is in the section shape. New software showed the 2003 section was a big improvement over the 7% t/c section we had been using since 1992 as well as the 6% t/c section. More work indicated a small improvement was possible in 2004 so we made yet another mould.

We have found the new section to be superior to the older (1992) 7% and (2000) 6% foils at all speeds. The first fin out of the 2003 mould was used on Graham’s Marblehead PRIME NUMBER for the 2003 UK national championship. Light airs speed was improved over 2002 and, still using all traditional rigs and in spite of a day of debris in the water combined with very varied and variable top suit conditions, the trophy was regained.

The second use of the fin early in the season was on the 10 Rater PRIZM in competition against Phil Playle’s fine-tuned sistership. Windward and down wind speed were both pleasing. Phillip’s PRIZM was then fitted with the new fin and these boats went on to finish 1st and 2nd in the 2003 UK national championship.

Graham’s ITALIKO was fitted with the new fin and since then has won the 2003 UK national championship, two other UK ranking events, and the Iberian championship as well as other open events.

The 2004 section offers a small improvement over the 2003 design. As usual we have incorporated the new design in all the boats we have built since then. For simplicity the item codes are the same for the 2004 designs.

Choose item 370a or 370b for a Marblehead or Ten Rater class fin. Choose item 370c or 370d for an IOM class fin. We can mould fins suitable for 36R, US 1M, 36/600 from the same moulds. Please tell us what size you want and we’ll give you a price.

The new fins can be retrofitted to any existing boat that have the rectangular section SAILSetc fin box. Call us for prices.

Call us if you want to discuss buying our older moulds. They may no longer be ‘optimum’ but they did produce foils that won seven world championships and will still produce very good foils.

Q  Who designs the foil sections for you?

A  David Hollom has kept us supplied with up to date foil sections and other advice since 1992. In fact he rightly claims a significant share of the credit for the success of SAILSetc designed and built yachts. His professional interest in design stretches from rc planes and rc yachts to manned versions of the same. Contact him at hollom-design@freeola.com.

Q  Why don't you mould the top of the fin to fit the fin box exactly?

A  A bit of history first. Going back to 1989 when we first sold boats we realised that the hulls needed a fin box and removable fin so that they could be delivered easily. The fin box was made by moulding over the complex shape at the top of the existing 1988 fin so that the fin fitted perfectly in the box. When we made the new CNC fin moulds in 1992 we copied the shape of the top of that fin so the new fin would fit existing boats. We used the same box up to about 1998 when we realised that it was a serious problem not to be able to adjust the position of the fin in a boat. It was a problem because a more accurate fin alignment jig showed us that the fin box could be about 0.5 degree off the centreline. It was also a problem because we started to make boats that were different to PARADOX and these needed a different fin position relative to the mast tube. When the fin fitted in only one position in the box we had no possibility to correct the angle of the fin or to get the balance right. So we made a fin box with a rectangular trunking shape.

Then we could fit the fin in a range of vertical positions, fore and aft positions, and at different rake angles. We could also compensate for any misalignment of the fin box with the boat centreline. This meant that we no longer needed to make the top of the fin with the complex shape of the 1988 fin and we could make it a simple extension of the lower fin shape. Designing, machining the moulds and making the fin was simplified and this offsets any additional work in fitting the fin to the box. In the end we get better built boats for the same work input.

We understand that there is some work required for people to fit one of our fins to one of our fin boxes. However we know that if we made these mouldings so that they were ready to use they would have one fixed relationship and the chances of this being right for any designs other than the ones we make would be close to zero - so our mouldings would not be very useful. It is also possible for people to use other fins in our fin box. Perhaps our fins can be used in other fin boxes too.

Q  How do I fit a SAILSetc fin in the fin box?

A  Make a cardboard or 3 mm plywood mock-up of the fin that fits the box as you want it and which is the required size and position. Transfer that profile shape to the fin moulding. Cut the fin to shape and fill the cut edges with filled epoxy resin. Adjust it to fit the box and hull as required. Drill a 1.6 mm hole through the fin just below the top. Drill two 1.6 mm holes through the fin, one near the leading edge, one near the trailing edge and both inside the box just above the hull bottom. Tap these three holes M2. Put M2 csk head x 10 mm long screws (or 8 mm for our newer IOM box) in the holes and adjust them so that the fin is in line with the hull in all senses. If you don’t have an M2 tap use a 1.8 mm drill and ‘self tap’ the screws into place. Wax the inside of the fin box and the hull all around the box. Abrade the fin each side for 10 mm above the bottom of the hull. Put the fin in the box and put filler into the gap using only enough to penetrate about 10 mm up the side of the fin. Leave the resin to cure thoroughly and remove the fin from the box. Put a spot of cyanoglue on the upper screw to lock it in place.

Q  My fin is bent and twisted. Why?

A  We cure our foils at a temperature only slightly above normal room temperature. They are black and when exposed to sunlight, or when left in a car on a hot day, they may reach temperatures in excess of 70 degrees C. At this temperature the resin will soften and, if there is any load acting on the keel, it will distort.

Often this happens when the boat is laid down on the ground between races. The boat is picked up and placed in the water. The bend or twist that has formed in the keel is then ‘frozen’ in place.

Avoid this happening by keeping the fin at a low temperature at all times. Help this by keeping it in the shade or by spraying it grey or white.

Q  What can I do about it now?

A  Allow the fin to be heated to a temperature slightly higher than previously. Leave it in the sun, place it on the dashboard of your car in the sun with the doors and windows closed, or use a low temperature oven to achieve this. If the fin has not been very over-heated you may find 50 degrees C is enough. Twist the fin back into line - you may need to twist more the other way to achieve this - and quickly cool the fin in water. If it does not work out you can go through the routine again.

If you cannot do this yourself we have a low temperature oven that will go up to 50 degrees C above ambient temperature. This is usually high enough to recover damaged fins. Send your fin back and we will do what we can to restore it.

7 Boat related

Q  Is it true you stopped taking orders for boats during 2007?

A  Yes. We had to close our order book for all boats during 2007 when Phillip Playle moved on to pastures new.

Q  Is it true you are selling boats now?

A  Yes. Phillip is currently finishing boats for SAILSetc as a sub-contractor and the first batches of boats are arriving here in autumn 2007.

Q  Will the boats be the same quality?

A  Yes.
The primary sources of the hulls remains the same – they have been made outside of SAILSetc for some time. SAILSetc continues to make the component parts used in their completion. The finishing work will be done by the same person. Overall quality control remains the responsibility of SAILSetc and the quality level will remain the same.

Q  How can I order a SAILSetc boat?

A  Tell us what you want and we will add your name to a list of people interested in each model that we make. When we have a boat or boats to offer we will contact you with the options so we can discuss your other requirements e.g. radio gear fitted, rig kits or completed rigs.

We will wish to make a nominal deposit of £50 when we add your name to the list.

Q  Where can I find information about SAILSetc boats?

A  Look at the relevant Class section of this website by going to PRODUCTS and then BOATS. Specifications for each class of BOAT are available as downloadable Word documents. Prices of BOATS are given on a downloadable Excel spreadsheet titled ‘Boat Order Form’.

Q  Where can I find information about rigs for SAILSetc boats?

A  Look at the relevant Class section of this website by going to PRODUCTS and then RIG KITS. Specifications for each class of RIG are available as downloadable Word documents. Prices of RIGS are given on a downloadable Excel spreadsheet titled ‘Rig Order Form’.

Q  What spares should I buy to complement a boat?

A  Very little should be necessary in the short term. We supply a set of deck patches and amongst these are several patches for the central hatch under which the rc is placed. This patch should be peeled off between regattas so that the hull may dry out properly. The patch can be re-used several times but will need replacing when its adhesion drops.

In the longer term you may need to replace damaged equipment or abraded rigging. We have eliminated elastic from the sheet tension system used on our boats so it should not be necessary to purchase any as a spare. The following list contains the most likely items:

DP-05 - deck patch material x 0.5 m^2

D30 - 30 kg BS Dyneema

D50 - 50 kg BS Dyneema

M4 x 25 mm countersunk head screw – keel bolt for IOM - (M4 x 40 mm pan head for others)

46b – stainless steel ring

54 – pot lid

57a – bowsies, mixed pack

82b – ‘O’ rings, for 10 mm, pack of 10

86 – rubber bung x 2

102-20 – counterbalance weight

330 - bow bumper

These items can be bought as a pack, item SPARES-PAK.

Q  Can SAILSetc complete a boat starting from a lines plan?

A  Unfortunately this is outside of our capacity. We may be able to refer you to someone who may undertake this work.

Q  I have an old hull that I’d like to repair and restore and use with RC. Can you carry out the work?

A  SAILSetc is not a vintage yacht restorer and our expertise is relatively limited. We suggest that, as a first step, you contact the Vintage Model Yacht Group which is concerned with the rescue, restoration and sailing of older styles of model yacht.

If you send your query with dimensions and weight of your boat and photos taken in its present state to the Chairman, Russell Potts, 8 Sherard Road, London SE9 6EP, he will probably be able to help you. You can also contact him at russellpotts@aol.com.

We do, however, stock a small range of vintage style fittings that may be useful to replace those missing from your restoration project.

Q  What is the best way to apply self adhesive deck patches to a boat?

A  Add some soft soap, the type than comes in handy dispensers for the washroom, to a little water. Add enough soap to the water to enable a film of water to remain without pulling back when it is applied to the deck flanges. Coat all the areas where the deck patch will stick and also the surrounding areas. Peel off the backing material and add the patch to the wetted area. The soapy water will allow you to move the patch around and stretch it out until it is where you want it. Drying time in the height of summer is less than an hour. Indoors in winter it may take several hours.

We use one of our screw top pots to keep the solution in so there is always some handy in the workshop.

Q  What is the best way to get the self adhesive deck patches off?

A  Carefully peel back a corner and pull the material firmly away from the deck keeping it close down to the deck. With care it should be possible to take the adhesive with the cloth. Sometimes this will not be possible and areas of adhesive will remain stuck to the boat. Generally it is best to avoid trying to use solvents to remove this adhesive as they will only spread the material more thinly over a larger area. They may damage the paint and boat too.

Instead use a small piece of deck patch material, perhaps some of the material you have pulled off, and stick its sticky side to the adhesive on the boat. Pull it off firmly. Keep doing this and you will find the adhesive is removed from the boat and picked up by the patch.

Q  My boat's hull now has a large dent in it. How has this happened?

A  Probably because it has been heated when there was a load acting on that part of the hull. See the question about the bent and twisted fin. Gradually raising the temperature of the whole hull, taking care to support it properly, will usually allow the hull to recover its original form. Again it is best to avoid this problem in the first place by protecting the hull from being overheated. Choosing light coloured hulls is a sensible precaution if you sail in hot and sunny conditions. If you would not leave your child or pet in the car because it is too hot, then it is too hot for your boat.

Q  What is the best way to repair damage to the gel coat on the hull?

A  For minor cracks in the gel coat where the hull structure behind is not seriously damaged

The area inside the hull surrounding the damage should be abraded with coarse abrasive paper. Depending on the position and seriousness of the damage, use a patch of reinforcement wetted out with the minimum of epoxy resin to patch the hull inside. Overlap the damage by 20 mm in all directions.

When cured, and if it is large enough, the crack in the gel coat should be filled with resin pigmented to the correct colour. When this has cured mask off the surrounding area and carefully rub down the new gel coat with 600, 800, 1000 and 1200 abrasive papers. Finally buff it with metal polish to restore the original finish.

For more serious damage where complete failure of the backing reinforcement has occurred

In these cases the material along the crack should be ground or filed out to allow the hull to return to its original shape at the earliest opportunity. This ensures the repair will not be so noticeable when it is made. The area inside the hull surrounding the damage should be abraded with coarse abrasive paper. Use self adhesive tape as necessary on the outside to hold the pieces of hull in their correct alignment.

Depending on the position and seriousness of the damage, use a patch of reinforcement wetted out with the minimum of epoxy resin to patch the hull inside. Overlap the damage by 20 mm in all directions. Avoid allowing resin to fill the crack.

When cured, fill the crack in the gel coat with resin pigmented to the correct colour. When this has cured mask off the surrounding area and carefully rub down the new gel coat with 600, 800, 1000 and 1200 abrasive papers. Finally buff it with metal polish to restore the original finish

Q  What is the best way to add a silicone bow bumper boat?

A  The only material we have found that will bond the bumper is silicone sealant as sold by plumbers’ merchants for sealing around work surfaces, pipes and tiles. The correct one to use is the one that smells strongly of acetic acid (vinegar). Choose the clear version. No other types will work.

Clean the aft face of the bumper and the area of bow that you will apply the bumper to using acetone or alcohol. Add masking tape around the area of hull that will have the bumper bonded to it. Allow the solvent to dry and apply a thick film of the sealant to the back of the bumper and a thinner film to the bow of the boat. Push the bumper onto the hull and carefully clean off the excess sealant. When the sealant has cured (leave for at least half a day) you will be able to peel off the masking tape.

A  Wflat, the 0.9 x 0.3 mm section stainless steel single strand wire can be used for rigging for IOM, M, 10R and similar sized boats. Its effect on drag gives an inexpensive but worthwhile contribution to performance. Care needs to be taken to form a secure termination at each end.

Form terminations as follows:

add a small crimp, item 70b
bend a small but well rounded loop about 30 mm from the end
compress the crimp
fold the end of the wire back over the crimp
cut the folded wire level with the outer end of the crimp
pass 15 mm of 3 mm heat shrink tube, item SF16, over the crimp and sharp end, and shrink in place

Q  Water gets into the screw top pot that I bought from you. Should I put Vaseline on the thread to stop this?

A  No. Vaseline will almost certainly attract grit and dust and prevent the threads from engaging properly. There are several reasons why water gets into the pots we supply and not all of them relate to the pot itself.

Pot not installed properly.

If the pot is installed too low in the boat, if the hole into which it is installed is too small or not round, or if excess silicone sealant has cured around the thread, then the lid will be prevented from screwing down properly. In these cases the correct remedy is to correct the fault and perhaps install a new pot.

Lid not tightened properly

If an electrical cable is trapped under the rim when the lid is tightened then a good seal will not be made and your cable may be damaged. Avoid this situation by ensuring nothing is fouling the closing of the lid, tightening it properly, and marking the centre of the front of the pot with a marker pen to show where the lid should be when it is tightened properly.

Irregularities in the rim of the pot

It is possible that there are slight irregularities in the upper rim of the pot that permit water to pass through. These may be present from new and can be caused by damage from trapped cables, tools, foreign objects. Check the rim of the pot and use a block of flat timber covered with 400 grade wet and dry abrasive paper to smooth the edge. The use a small piece of 600 grade abrasive paper to round the upper edge in section. This will enhance the seal made by the rim of the pot on the wadding. If the wadding is damaged, turn it over or ask us for a replacement lid.

8 General

A  There is no simple answer to this question. Sail and rig tuning is a huge subject and has be learnt over a long period of time. The best I can suggest is to combine reading widely on the subject (look in books aimed at big boat sailing – see our Booklist MI 03 under the Downloads section) with practice at events where you can watch and learn from the best sailors. A fantastic resource for rc sailors is Lester Gilbert’s website – http://www.onemetre.net – in which he de-mystifies much of what we hear and read about.

Q  I am looking for an ABC sized version of an XYZ – do you have one in stock?

A  If you cannot find it on this website we almost certainly do not make or stock this item. However we keep a ‘wish list’ where we can add requests for oddball items and keep a track of who is interested in them. Tell us what you want and the least we can do is to log your wish. If we get enough enquiries after the same item we can go into production and then get in touch with all those who expressed interest.

Q  Can we visit the SAILSetc shop and look at some items?

A  SAILSetc is a workshop rather than a shop. However, if you would care to make an appointment (weekday, 8 am to 6 pm) and give us an idea of what you would like to discuss, we will try to show you what you want to see. We do not have goods on display to inspect and unfortunately we are not geared up to deal with casual callers.

Q  We stock some model yachting equipment for retail in our model shop and want to increase the range. Do you supply traders?

A  Yes. We have a trade price list for bona fide model shop and model yachting businesses.

Q  At the race on Sunday I was involved in an incident. Can you explain why I was disqualified?

A  I could try, but it is better that you hear it from someone qualified to tell you. Contact your national racing rules secretary (or whoever is responsible for racing in your country). If he cannot explain then he will be able to refer you to experienced and qualified national judges who will be in a position to consider your question and advise with authority. Hear it from the real experts.

If you do not possess a copy of the current Racing Rules of Sailing (RRS), get a copy. For less than the price of a battery pack you will learn far more about getting good results by learning a few simple rules (or by learning them better than you knew them before).

It is worth remembering that you can usually appeal a decision by a jury. Tell them you want to appeal their decision and follow the procedure given in the RRS. This appeal process also works when the jury decides it has found your protest invalid.

9 Can you . . . ?

A  Of course. Please remember it takes time to get everyone else’s orders together as well as yours and we might be leaving a day or two earlier than you think. A week’s notice is appreciated.

Q  Can SAILSetc complete a kit from another manufacturer?

A  Unfortunately this is not a service we can offer. We may be able to recommend to you people who will be willing to do such work. Please ask.

Q  Can SAILSetc build rigs suitable for testing America’s Cup Class yacht models?

A  Yes. We have delivered rigs to one of the challenger design teams who wanted to do some trial sailing. Their specific requirements were accommodated successfully. We have also produced model rigs for use in the wind tunnel and many of our stock items would be suitable for rigging wind tunnel models.

10 Is it true?

Q  Is it true you stopped taking orders for boats in 2007?

A  Yes.

We had to close our order book for all boats during 2007 when Phillip Playle moved on to pastures new. However he is currently finishing boats for SAILSetc as a sub-contractor and the first batches of boats are arriving here in autumn 2007.

Q  Is it true I can get a SAILSetc boat?

A  Yes. Tell us which class you are interested in and we will log that with your contact details. When we have boats to offer we will work down the list in order and advise what is available. At present we do not plan to offer installation of rc equipment but will be able to provide rig kits, completed rigs, measurement etc as usual.

Q  Is it true you have replaced the Ten Rater PRIZM?

A  Yes. The attraction of making hulls in pre-preg carbon, and an order for a small fleet of PRIZMs, means it was time to look again at this design to see if some extra performance could be gained. PRIZM has been an outstanding design since it was launched placing 1and 2 in the 1999 world championship and winning almost all the major races in the UK since then. The work identified a hull form that should give better straight line speed across the whole wind speed range as well as retaining the excellent manoeuvrability of PRIZM. The new boat, called DIAMOND, is made in almost exactly the same way as PRIME NUMBER and sailed in spring 2007 for the first time. It went on to win the 2007 Brittany Cup and GBR national championship.

Q  Is it true that SAILSetc is selling some of its moulds?

A  Yes. We keep a list (un-used mould list) of moulds that are offered for sale. The moulds are those we no longer use for production of parts but may be excellent starting points for other builders who want to avoid the mould making process and step straight into production. Replacement of a number of our boat moulds, so that we can produce hulls in pre-preg carbon, means we can offer the moulds we have been using up to 2006. The list includes PUZZLE and RENAISSANCE but not SWORD as the original mould was destroyed in an accident.

Q  Is it true that SAILSetc has a job opportunity for an additional craftsman/woman?

A  Yes. We are blessed with products that are in demand throughout the year by rc sailors and not enough productive time between the folk who work here to keep high stock levels at all times. Demand for our goods is currently at an all time high level and we do find it difficult keeping pace with orders and dispatches. Currently, early 2008, we have a job opportunity for a part time/full time craftsperson/engineer who can also cope with packing orders for delivery or, possibly, two part time craftspeople. A jobseeker in the London/Essex/Suffolk area with a good level of communication and craft or light engineering skills and who can be versatile enough to fit into a small team would be an ideal candidate. Knowledge of foreign languages, sailing, boat building, sail making, grp/frp laminating or model making would be useful in addition.

A  Yes. After its success winning the 2004 European championship in Arcos we had several requests to mould the boat. TOPIKOs are in production in Croatia, France, Germany and Netherlands and there is a mould in Finland. Each builder has introduced his own preferences for style of finish. Contact Robert Grubisa, Remi Bres, Heinz Bohn, Jari Immanen and Joop de Jong for details.

Q  Is it true that the SAILSetc boom kit has been changed?

A  Yes. Instead of using the sheet hook, 87z, to attach the sheets into one of a row of holes drilled in the boom we use an adjustable sheet attachment fitting, 104d, based on the track slide, 104b. This has several advantages – holes in the boom are avoided and this cuts out another source of corrosion – the position of the sheet attachment will remain fixed until you choose to move it – a larger scope of adjustment is possible.

Q  Is it true that the SAILSetc boom section has been changed over the years?

A  Yes. The shape of the aluminium spar section that has been used for SAILSetc One Metre boom kits since 1995 was updated in 2004. We want to explain the change and how it will affect use of the range of SAILSetc fittings that are co-ordinated for use with the spar section.

The original section shape was chosen to permit a PeKaBe shackle to be added to the boom to form an attachment point. This created problems when corrosion worked on the close combination of aluminium, anodised aluminium, brass and nickel. We looked for a solution to this problem and found one that also avoided having to drill a hole in the boom at the point of load.

By late 2002, the shackle was replaced by an adjustable stainless steel sheet attachment fitting, 104d. An adjustable swivel fitting was also designed to make use of the same concept and materials, item 120d. It was no longer necessary to drill a hole in the boom to fix the boom swivel either.

In 2004 we found we needed to replace the tooling for the SAILSetc spar section and took the opportunity to update the design. The section shape has been revised to make it simpler, stiffer and cleaner looking.

Q  Is it true Graham’s treatment for leukaemia has finished?

A  Chemotherapy continued into the beginning of 2004 when more tests showed his health was back to normal. In fact his health has been very good since treatment started in May 2003. Visits to hospital are now a once a year affair to keep an eye on things. We are grateful to our customers for their patience when their orders were delayed and if you are a blood donor, many thanks!

Q  Lorna is not working with SAILSetc now that she has trained as a minister of the church. Is it true?

A  Not exactly! Lorna completed her formal training for the ministry in 2002 and, after a period of placement with a local church, was ordained into the United Reformed Church in early 2003. It is a part time ministry and she usually spends some hours each day around the SAILSetc office.

The best time to catch Lorna on the phone is around 8.30 am and 5-6 pm UK time.

Q  Is it true that I can call and speak to someone in French or Spanish?

A  Yes. Lorna can take your calls in French and Spanish.  The best time to call is around 8.30 am and 5-6 pm UK time. She can also understand a little Portuguese and Italian but we appreciate it if you can use English for the technical terms.

Q  Is it true you have designed a canting keel yacht for the Formula 100 – Open One Metre (F100) class rules?

A  Yes. See FAQ section 3 - Design above.

Q  Is it true that you have been using a Hitec servo for sail control in your One Metre?

A  Yes. In 2003 a new ITALIKO was fitted with the unit to test installation in our boats. It has proved trouble free and has the advantages of precise sail control at close sheeting angles coupled with high speed at wide sheeting angles making gybing a real joy.

Ken Binks is adding the servo (HS-5745MG) to his stock of RC equipment and can supply suitable packs of rc equipment for you to fit to your boat.

We have a purpose designed adjustable carbon arm for use with the servo, item 67d under Hull Fittings. The 100 mm diameter drum, 67f, gives better control – see note below.

Q  Is it true that you are now using a drum on the Hitec servo?

A  Yes. Some customers have found that the servo and arm can fail to sheet in the sails at certain times, usually when the boat is quite overpowered on off wind legs of the course. This has led us to develop a 100 mm diameter drum that can provide more load capacity at those times. Of course it un-avoidably provides less capacity at others but this does not seem to be a problem.

The drum has been well tested and is in production, item 67f under Hull Fittings. A drawing supplied with it describes the way we install it in our production boats. The installation is relatively simple compared with the previous system but does require a pair of small glass mouldings that are bonded into the hull, item 67g also under Hull Fittings. These will enable people to retro fit this system into their SAILSetc boat or to fit it to other designs.

Q  I read/heard/saw it on the internet that XYZ broke/fell off/leaks/is slow/does not work on your boat in a recent race etc. Is it true?

A  Do you believe everything you read in the papers? If you need clarification on any rumours please ask us directly.

Bear in mind that we have to test things in real competition from time to time. The only way to test whether a heavier ballast will work on a Marblehead in open competition, for example, is to race with it in light winds. It is fairly obvious that it will improve results in a breeze. There are variations on this theme that may well appear to indicate less than sparkling performance. But these are always wonderful opportunities to improve our tactics!

Q  I have heard you are working on a new design to replace your current boat. Is it true?

A  We are always looking at ways of improving the performance of our boats. But this does not mean we are about to produce a new design. Also we will not go to the trouble of making a plug, new moulds, and building and testing a prototype unless it is ‘guaranteed’ to be an improvement. The investment in time, effort, and lost production associated with this sort of work is large and not the sort of thing to be undertaken lightly or simply to keep up with fashion. We will do it, however, when we think we can make a significant improvement.

When we do go down this route it is our practice to advise customers who have a boat on order that there is an alternative choice to consider. We think that is fair but of course there are no absolute guarantees that the new design will be better. The customer should decide if he is willing to take that chance. Of course new designs tend to have teething problems to sort out and this is a risk the customer needs to take into account.

Interestingly, the largest genuine gains (i.e. a gain in all conditions rather than in one specific condition) in performance over the last decade have been about 5 to 10 times greater from better foil design than from better hull design. Although this does not mean we should ignore hull design, it does indicate that the most profitable area for research is in the foils. Happily these are also the easiest to replace.

11 Buying

A  We are the primary source of 95% of the goods that we sell. We either make them ourselves here or we have them made to our own designs by subcontractors. Almost all fittings and spars are in stock. Moulded parts and sails are made to order although very occasionally we do have mouldings in stock.

Our usual practice is to supply fittings, rig kits, and spars as soon as possible after receiving your order (within a few days normally) and to supply sails and moulded parts made specially for you as soon as they are completed (1-5 weeks for sails, sometimes more; generally less for moulded parts).

Q  When will the sails that I have ordered be made?

A  Sails are made in batches and in an informal type of rotation something like: M swing rigs, M conventional rig sails, custom sails, standard One Metre sails, custom One Metre sails. If you have just missed placing your order before that batch was made you may have 4 weeks or more to wait. Sorry. 

12 After sales

Q  Where can I find the SAILSetc Terms and Conditions?

A  Please look under the SHOP navigation bar.