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Photo Gallery M

 

Description

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PRIME NUMBER is the Marblehead we have been making since 2002. The design follows on from PARADOX which won the 1992, 1994 and 1998 world championships, RAD which won the 1998 world championship, and ROK which placed 2nd in the 2000 world championship. PRIME NUMBERs have placed 2nd in the 2002 and third in the 2006 world championships. Early boats were built using coloured gel coat and hand lamination into an open mould with ambient temperature curing.

 

 

            Photo by unknown


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Since 2006 PRIME NUMBER has been bult using pre-preg carbon in a closed mould. This shot shows the overall layout of the boat - the join is around the line of maximum beam just below the deck level. Down turns on the edges of the deck flanges increase the stiffness of the hull structure significantly. The rc pot is accessible at deck level and eliminates the need for a switch while protecting the receiver and batteries. The winch (RMG280 preferred) and servo are mounted on a special moulded rc tray offset to starboard. Recesses for the headsail sheet fairleads and headsail boom swivel attachments are moulded into the primary hull moulding and help to reduce weight. The PTFE fairlead in the vertical bulkhead is where the main sheet exits. Just visible on the starboard side deck edge are repairs made to this hull after a heavy roll of carbon cloth was accidentally dropped on it. In fact switching to pre-preg carbon has meant far fewer repairs. It is doubtful a conventionally moulded hull would have been recoverable after such an accident.

              Photo by SAILSetc


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The winch line/sheeting system we use is common to all our boats and this shot of a One Metre illustrates it very well. The main sheet exits the hull through a PTFE fairlead mounted into the bulkhead from where it goes directly to the main sheet post. The sheet line from the winch returns from a block in the bow via a PTFE fairlead mounted on the port side of the mast tube. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Photo by Pier Luigi Puthod

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The recess for the rc pot and the special rc mount moulding are clearly shown here. An RMG280 winch is mounted on a plate and then held in place by two quick release screws. The rc mount in shaped to take the rudder servo on the port side. The recess around the mast tube allows good mechanical advantage for the gooseneck unit while keeping the mainsail luff length close to the maximum height permitted for the rig.

 

              Photo by SAILSetc


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The general layout of the hull of the Marblehead and also the Ten Rater. For 2010 onwards the position and shape of the rc access hatch has been changed to permit the rc pot to be placed on the centreline.

 

 

 

 

 

              Photo by SAILSetc


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The rc support tray is bonded onto the fin box, braced by the rc pot itself and bonded to the tube in which the main sheet post is placed. The rc tray is moulded with appropriate recesses for an RMG winch (or other drum winch) and a Futaba or equivalent servo. These items are held in place using our quiick release system that eliminates the need for a screwdriver.

 

 

              Photo by SAILSetc

 


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Looking aft from the bow towards the fin box and mast tube. On the left hand side is the moulded fairlead through which the sheet lines all pass. The diagonal connections between hull bottom next to the mast and deck edge under the shroud attachment points are specially moulded items.
 


   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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The moulded fairlead is shaped to bond properly to the hull/deck adge area. The return line back to the winch drum as well as the main sheet and the headsail sheet all pass through the hole. The moulded surface is smoothly shaped so the lines pass with minimal friction. For the Marblehead and Ten Rater the fairlead is made using carbon.

   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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The moulded diagonals. These are made of glass and epoxy resin but we use carbon/epoxy versions for the Marblehead and Ten Rater hulls.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                Photo by Sailsetc


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This shot shows the connection between the upper end of the moulded diagonal and the underside of the hull/deck flange on an IOM. The diagonal is bonded in place with a stainless steel plate embedded underneath that takes the screws holding the shroud attachment plate in place. The same method is used in the Marblehead and Ten Rater.

   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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The shroud attachment plates set flush with the deck. The plate is held down to the deck and connected directly to the diagonals with two M2 stainless steel bolts. The lower end of the rigging screw is a ball that is pushed through the larger part of the keyhole and then slid across to the other part (inboard side). Adding and removing the rig is a little quicker thanks to this refinement and, if you wish to adjust the shroud tension, you can do it without removing the rigging screw. The same method is used for the Marblehead and Ten Rater.

   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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Looking forward to the rc support tray, screw top pot and the carbon tube in which the main sheet post is placed. The rc pot helps support the rc tray very positively.

 

 

 

 



   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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Looking aft towards the rudder trunking. This shot shows the Ten Rater but the detail is the same on the Marblehead. The rudder trunking, item 69-040, has an 'O' ring incorporated into it to eliminate water ingress. The grip of the 'O' ring on the rudder shaft can be adjusted by tightening the upper part of the rudder trunking and a length of shrink fit tubing is added to lock the parts. The line tied to the rudder trunking saves the drain bung from being lost. Directly above the rudder trunking is the upper bearing for the rudder stock. To port (right) of the upper bearing is a hole cut in the deck to give access to the tiller arm screw. On the Marblehead this access hole is in the transom. Behind the rudder trunking is a moulding that connects the bottom of the hull to the deck and which adds stiffness to the deck so that it can take the backstay loads properly. The round shape showing on that moulding is a cap that attaches the backstay fitting neatly.

 

 

              Photo by SAILSetc


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The top of the fin has a stainless steel insert bonded in place that takes the M4 stainless steel bolt used to hold the fin in place. Also visible at the head of the fin is the transverse screw that we use to align the fin correctly with the hull. This permits us to correct any discrepancy created by the fin box being bonded into the hull imperfectly.

   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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Likewise at the bottom of the fin we use a stainless steel insert through which M3 studding is placed. The fin is only about 4.8 mm thick here so there is no chance of using anyhting thicker than M3. The studding is bonded into the fin and the ballast is held in place using the long nut with a slot to allow tightening using a screwdriver.

   
             Photo by Sailsetc


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